Legg særlig merke til hennes meninger om skeg....... Ja det er forskjell på lek og turpadling.
Since Valparaiso/ Chile in August 2012 I was paddling around South America the new
“Freya” expedition kayak, developed by Point 65 in cooperation with the designer Magnus de Brito and my own experience of many miles of remote expedition kayaking.
I will now in my home break write some personal review about the
kayak, trying to be objective and not influenced by my obvious
sponsorship by Point 65 ….there are a lot of common sense knowledge
statements in there, but also a lot of fine tuning your “Freya” kayak
you already own or plan to purchase soon.
- When it puts you off that the kayak carrying my name in fat
letters you can peel them off easily – I know I am not everybody’s
personal darling (and don’t even want to…) !
)
- This boat has a strong character – like myself….and it is
unique in
the wide range of available expedition sea kayaks. Don’t even think an
at the first glance similar looking boat has the similar features. I am
happy to compare for you any other available brand’s model and tell you
why mine is better!
- You like the most beautiful, sexy looking piece ever with
outstanding lines, not able to be mixed up with any other model on the
market? The “Freya” has it…
- You like a kayak with
large storage capacity?
I can easily carry food for way more than four weeks and water for more
than twelve days, plus all the rest of my gear I think I need to carry
around. You just need to be able to handle the heavy barge then at least
at the beginning until you eat and drink your way through the load. Any
other expedition kayak I paddled so far can carry way less stuff. Even
in front of the footrest I can store 4 x 4 liters of water, if
needed…(with my body length of 1,77 m, Peter with 1,95 m having the seat
and footrest extended to the max still can take two bags there)
- Yes, you should not be a too short, too weak person to paddle this
boat, though the range of the seat adjustment and footrest adjustment
allows people down to maybe 1,60 m to be able to paddle the kayak and to
find a good position on paddling with free knees and on locking the
legs in case you need to roll. But a full load of over 100 kg may be
tough to handle by a short fragile woman. I am just an average size,
average strength (compared to males…) , am perfectly happy with the
relation of my size and the kayak and can handle it even fully loaded!
- You like a
fast kayak, still solid stable and tracking well straight with a now perfect rudder system?
Here we go…it is fast as hell with the round hull shape and sharp bow
and very little rocker, surfing empty like a flash while easy to keep
stable in big waves and straight with the most efficient rudder hanging
always *in* the water, and it is with those qualities simply running
efficient if you have a heavy load – all I want on my expeditions. It is
not a typical beginner kayak though, but possible, and if you teach a
beginner in this kayak, he/ she will at least be able to learn how to
paddle correctly with the features below.
- You like non-leaking and simply to handle hatches and lids? The
regular solid oval rubber hatches are never leaking once put on
straight, They are very easy to handle compared to some other fancy
looking but at the end all leaking or fumbling hatch closure systems. My
own kayak is eventually produced well with very few spots to sand or
other ugly spots like non-laminated screw hats inside. They are getting
close to the perfectly manufactured kayak (which I NEVER had on any
other kayak…) If your day hatch has still such a stiff lightweight lit,
ask your dealer for a solid rubber one. They are much better and locking
solidly, although a few grams more heavy. Who cares?
- I would now (after my student’s learning phase…) never paddle a
skeg only kayak for an expedition or even a simple day touring, as it is
a waste of energy to do correction strokes with the paddle. Why should I
not rather just press slightly my either tip toes to go around a corner
instead of taking speed out of my pace to use the paddle for
directional control or to edge my kayak? I see no reason…besides kayak
teachers have something to teach and it may be fun to learn. But it is
not efficient, neither on surfing waves, nor on fast paddling, nor on
maneuvering your kayak through narrow slots. And efficiency is a BIG
word for me on a kayak trip…and it may end up into more safety…
- Also, any other rudder system will break sooner or later, pulled up
or being released on a rough surf landing. And if you maybe have even
to do a roll with potential ground touch, or the kayak is later tumbling
around in the back surge or surf after exiting before you are
eventually able to control it, it is also likely to break. Other similar
looking rudder systems like the one from epic are way too fragile,
wearing out quickly and breaking the fin off easy. My rudder system is
(after some teething problems…) solid and survived even my
endless Pororoca surf at night with
the nylon blade only marginal bent. I could form it with some pressure
just back to the old shape. On any other ugly surf landing I did the
same, if the blade got a bit bent, but it never broke!!! Neither did the
whole system dissolve. Ok, every few days I have to tighten the screws
on the small bottom bar holding the rudder foot on place. Some Locktite
may fix the issue. And you may need to check after long heavy use the
screws holding the pole of the rudder foot after you took the rudder
off. But this may not even be necessary for normal use.
- You should look
*not*
for a kayak with those fat thigh supports sticking out in the way where
you should drive your legs up and down while paddling…the knee lock
under the cockpit rim in case of a necessary roll is good enough.
Unfortunately a normal sea kayaker is still thinking he needs to spread
out and to lock his knees all the time while paddling…kayak racer and
surfski people don’t either, and the latter paddle in sometimes bigger
seas than sea kayakers do…I hung out enough with racing people to see
the difference. These thighs support pieces are also in the way on a
quick entry or exit. Unfortunately there are very few so called “fast
fitness kayaks” with expedition ambitions, having a sharp vertical bow
and thinking they are matching this class just trying to look the same
in the hull shape. As they are mostly outfitted with those surplus
pieces, the result is that few sea kayakers are learning and eventually
are able to paddle an efficient body rotating, core paddling style as
they obviously can’t use their legs with them being safely locked away
all the time. You may slightly get around this issue by keeping your
legs off the thigh braces and still moving them up and down in the range
your kayak does allow. But it will never be working well.
- The same goes for the footrests – as you should drive your legs,
keeping them close together to support your good core paddling style,
you will meed a solid foot bar like in the “Freya” kayak reaching all
across the hull, with the directional control paddles attached on the
top, instead of those tiny rests attached to the sides of the hull,
hurting not only your feet on a long paddling day, not being able to
find a variation of comfortable positions, but also forcing you to
spread your knees. Even worse is the strange system of some Canadian
manufacturer where the tiny footrests at the sides are mounted on
sliding bars and are even meant to be moving to be able to turn the
rudder…if you now try to drive your legs somehow to assist a good core
paddling style, you are continuously moving the rudder like a fish
tail…maybe this propels you along a bit faster?
- All deck lines, toggles and fittings are made and placed well, you can easy add a
Zölzer deck net
on the front deck and a triangle cut one on the stern for your helmet,
see my own kayak pictures. I always have such nets on my kayak deck. And
you should add a double running bow line with a sliding knot and solid
snap link for multi purpose use. I mostly drag my emptied kayak up the
beach on the bow line clipped to the toggle, having in this way two
attachment points on the last fitting and on the toggle to hold the
weight. I also use the bow line as a life line on paddling to clip
myself via the spray deck or PFD to the kayak on ANY conditions. And you
may like the bow line simply to park your kayak afloat somewhere, and
and and…
- The backrest they put in is not too bad, but quite high. I personally prefer a smaller soft one
Back Band 2 from Snapdragon.
- The flat seat in the production line you can also live with to a
certain degree of hard usage. I have a more solid one built in my
expedition version which is hung up on two rails at the sides of the
hull and not sitting on one bottom rail only.
-The cockpit rim is mostly a bit sharp inside where you like to grab
the kayak straddled to pull it up the beach backwards, but you can sand
the spot to soften.
Overall – I don’t like to paddle
any other kayak on any length any more! Lengthy expedition, weekend or
short day trip – this is my kayak!
- Some things on the basically great and unique whole rudder system
unfortunately Point 65 changed on the production line, different to my
own kayak I am using, without my acceptance:
1. They invented this strange new turning knob for uphauling the rudder
blade instead of keeping a simple line running through a deck slot
ending up in a clam cleat. No good at all, but you can try to live with
it or it is possible to change.
2. The fine tuning of the length of the rudder lines to adjust the angle
of the rudder pedals inside the cockpit is not outfitted with an in the
line inserted double screw like in my kayak but with a simple small
clam cleat only which may slide on the long use. Easy to correct
yourself!
3. They added a very much in the way and surplus handle to change the foot plate locking position. Easy to get rid of!
You can contact me if you like to know how to change those three issues if you may also not be happy with them.